TAKING MEASUREMENTS

What are the Essential Measurements?

Taking measurements correctly is not only useful for those who make their own clothes but also and especially for those who shop online, thus minimizing the risk of incorrectly ordering clothing items that we can “’t wait to wear. Today’s mini-guide for taking correct measurements is aimed precisely at this: being able to measure yourself correctly on your own, to avoid anything going wrong at the time of” purchase.

Ready? Let’s Begin!

First of all, you need a tailor’s measuring tape, a strip of fabric or a cord long enough to tie around your waist (not essential but very useful… you’ll understand why later!) and perhaps position yourself in front of a mirror. If you have a “friend, sister, husband, aunt, mother-in-law, mother, boyfriend, or anyone” else willing to help… even better!

Essential Measurements for Ordering a Garment (for Example Online)

Stand in front of the mirror, to see better, and let’s begin (you’ll find the figures at the end of the article):

1. BUST CIRCUMFERENCE – (Fig.2) Should be measured at the fullest point of the bust, going all the way around. It’s absolutely essential to ensure that the measuring tape stays at the same height both front and back, and remember to keep breathing while taking measurements. There’s no point in holding your breath to gain a few centimeters. PS: The bust circumference should not be confused with the chest circumference, which is under the armpits and therefore narrower than the bust circumference.
2. WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE – (Fig.3) This is the narrowest point just above the navel. Again, measure all around while remembering not to hold your breath.
3. HIP CIRCUMFERENCE – (Fig.4) This is the fullest point at the hip and should be measured carefully to stay at the most prominent point of both the hip and buttocks. Remember to always ensure that the measuring tape is at the same height both front and back.
4. SKIRT or PANTS LENGTH – (Fig.14/15) Should be measured from the waist down to the desired length. In this case, having a cord or strip of fabric tied around your waist helps to start from the same point for measuring (both for lengths that start from the waist down and those that start from the shoulder down). Be careful not to bend down while taking these measurements, as this would alter the lengths.
5. DRESS OR JACKET LENGTH – Should be taken from the shoulder line (or better from the “intersection between shoulder and neck, where it forms an” angle, to be clear) down to the waist point (which thanks to our waist cord will remain constant for all lengths we take) and continue down to the desired dress or jacket length.
6. SLEEVE LENGTH – (Fig.10) Measure from the outermost bone of the shoulder (you can locate it by pressing with your fingers at the end of the shoulder) all the way to the wrist, following the length of the arm which should be slightly bent.

I’d say that, with these measurements, most of the garments you’ll buy online should be okay. Hurrah!

Remember that the measurements you’ll find in the size charts on websites (I’d say pretty much all of them…) refer to the measurements of the finished garment and not to your measurements, and you must absolutely take into account the fit you need. The fit represents the ease, meaning the extra centimeters beyond your measurements, which make movement possible and give comfort to the garment. More ease means more comfort. Beyond the movement issue, ease also represents the particularity or style of the garment.

My Dolomites-scented dresses for example, are designed with a loose fit and, if you prefer to wear clothes more “fitted”, you should consider ordering one size smaller.

Essential Measurements for Making a Garment Independently

If you’re super skilled and make your own clothes, here are the important measurements (you’ll find the figures at the end of the article):

1. Fig. 1: Chest, should be measured under the armpits by first raising the arms, passing the measuring tape all around while keeping it at the same height, then lowering the arms. The difference between chest and bust circumference determines the depth of the bust dart. The greater this difference, the more voluminous the bust is. (Half of the chest circumference generally determines the person’s size. Ex: chest = 88 cm, the person’s size will be 44).
2. Fig. 2: As per point 1 above.
3. Fig. 3: As per point 2 above.
4. Fig. 4: As per point 3 above.
5. Fig. 5: Bust height, measured from the “shoulder/neck intersection to the most prominent and central point of the bust (the nipple, to be clear) and will be used to determine the” height of the bust dart for a custom pattern (that famous dart at bust level that’s often too low or too high on ready-made clothes ;)).
6. Fig. 6: Bust separation, the distance between the two bust points (between the two nipples) and is used to determine the distance between the darts to be made at the waist and the depth to give to the bust darts
7. Fig. 7: Back waist length, taken from the usual shoulder/neck angle to the waist point at the back, stopping at the height of that famous cord we fixed at the waist.
8. Fig. 8: Front waist length, measured from the same point to the front waist point (and we won’t get the height wrong because we have our cord always fixed there).
9. Fig. 9: Total waist length – Represents a check of the sum of the two measurements just taken.
10. Fig. 10: As per point 6 above.
11. Fig. 11: Start as in the point above, stopping at the elbow. An interesting measurement for special sleeves (like puff sleeves) or for short sleeves.
12. Fig. 12: Back shoulders, is the distance between the two outermost shoulder bones and can be located by pressing with your fingers on the outer part of the shoulders. For very full-figured people, you need to visualize the end of the back (in case these two bones cannot be found).
13. Fig. 13: Back width, is the width about 10 cm lower than the one in the point above and is used to give uniformity to the back armhole line.
14. Fig. 14: Skirt length – As per point 4 above.
15. Fig. 15: Pants length – As per point 4 above.
16. Fig. 16: Knee length, taken from the waist point to the center of the knee and is a useful measurement for drawing the knee line when constructing a pants pattern, as well as for establishing the length of a skirt, above or below the knee.

I’d say with these measurements you have really quite a lot, and there are very few other more specific ones missing. If you have questions or suggestions, or perhaps you’ve found big differences from how you’re used to doing it, I’ll wait for you in the comments below.
I hope I’ve been helpful!
See you soon!

Anita

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